Bird's Eye Gallery
Fine Art Photography of the Natural World
Micah "Doc" Daugherty
Bird's Eye Gallery
Fine Art Photography of the Natural World
Micah "Doc" Daugherty
Where Ice Meets the Ocean
Kenai Fjords National Park
Before stepping foot onto the trails or boarding a glacier cruise, it helps to understand just how extraordinary this corner of Alaska really is. Officially established as a National Park on December 2, 1980, under the historic Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA), Kenai Fjords was protected to safeguard a rapidly changing, ice-carved wilderness. The crown jewel of Kenai Fjords is the Harding Icefield, a massive 700-square-mile expanse of ice up to a mile thick that feeds over 30 glaciers flowing down into deep, ocean-filled fjords. Beyond its dramatic geography, Kenai holds immense ecological and cultural significance: it preserves thousands of years of Alutiq (or Pacific Eskimo) Native history, protects vital rainforest and marine ecosystems, and serves as a haven for wildlife ranging from sea otters and humpback whales to sea lions and puffins. It became a national park so that this pristine, living relic of the Ice Age could remain protected and accessible for generations to come.
Before venturing out into the fjords, we kicked off our journey in Seward. Seward is the historic gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park, and is a bustling harbor town tucked between Resurrection Bay and dramatic, snow-capped peaks. From the shore we watched fishing boats come and go, bringing in their “catches of the day.” And I suggest taking the time to have lunch at one of the local restaurants that boast some of the best local fish. Great places to try are Ray’s Waterfront, The Cookery, or Tidewater Taphouse. All of which serve fresh fish from Alasan waters, such as wild salmon, halibut (one of my favorites), and crab legs. And if you are into trying Alaskan-brewed beer, the Tidewater Taphouse offers an extensive variety on tap.
Although hiking the glaciers (specifically Exit Glacier) is a great way to visit Kenai Fjords National Park, booking a half-day or full-day cruise through the fjords will be the most memorable. To grasp the full breadth of the park, seeing it from the water is the way to go. There are many outfitters offering these types of cruises, and I can’t say that one is better than another. They all work together to create experiences that their guests will talk about for years to come. The various outfitters communicate with each other when wildlife is spotted, and the ship captains will divert to that area. They also communicate about weather patterns and rough seas, although this can’t always be avoided. We were very fortunate on the day we toured because the winds were subdued and the sea was calm. We chose our cruise with Major Marine Tours based on some recommendations from others who had toured with them. Major Marine was a phenomenal host. The staff was very friendly and knowledgeable; and they made our experience one that won’t be forgotten.
It didn’t take long to realize that this cruise into the fjords was going to be amazing. As we set out of the harbor, we passed a channel marker with a beautiful, majestic bald eagle perched on top. It stood proudly as we sailed by, as if it knew that my camera was ready for action. If there is one thing that I have learned during my many trips to Alaska, bald eagles are not a scarcity. These birds literally flock to the harbors and can be sighted near waterways throughout the state. Our next wildlife spotting, just past the bald eagle, was a group of sea otters floating along, as if relaxing in their living rooms watching the humans go by. The sea otter is another common sighting, as they frequent the harbors and outer waters nearby to feed.
As we progressed on our journey, we were treated to a sight that very few will have the opportunity to witness. One of the naturalists onboard pointed out a flock of seagulls congregating over the waters ahead (while the ship captain announced the same over the loudspeaker). This indicates that whales may be nearby. As we drew closer, a small pod of 4 to 5 humpback whales appeared. They disappeared beneath the turquoise sea as the seagulls began amassing in a chaotic pattern near the point where the whales submerged. The humpbacks were “bubble net feeding”! Bubble net feeding is a method of feeding where the whales submerge and one or two of them begin swimming in a circle deep below a large school of fish and release air from their blowholes. The rising bubbles create an inescapable, tightening “net” that traps a school of fish. While this net is being cast, the other whales will often produce loud, underwater feeding calls to vibrate the school’s swim bladders, forcing them to clump together into a tight, panicked ball. Then, all the whales will gather in the center of the bubble ring. And with a final, synchronized lunge, the whales rapidly resurface, rocketing through the middle of the school of fish to scoop up massive amounts of water and fish with one motion, filtering out the water through their baleen plates. This is a very efficient way for these massive mammals to feed, as they can take in a significantly larger volume of fish together versus hunting alone. This was a rare treat, as less than 5% of the world’s humpback population feeds in this manner.
As we move beyond the humpbacks and their feeding frenzy, we witnessed several pods of orca swimming along playfully. Several of them put on a show by breaching close enough to the ship to capture some great images. And we even saw an orca cow and her calf swimming among the pods. Orca whales are frequently seen in these regional waters, as the population of harbor seals (a delicacy to the orca) is high. Next, we make a quick stop in an area called “The Rookeries.” The Rookeries are rocky spires with steep cliffs with a variety of vegetation growing on them. They jet out of the water like something from a fantasy novel. Many species of birds call The Rookeries their home and can be found along the rocky cliffs, including two species of puffins: the tufted puffin and horned puffin. We observed both species, as well as other birds, swimming along but not many were perched on the rocky cliffs of the spires.
Our final stop before heading back to harbor are the Tidewater Glaciers. These gorgeous ice flows are only a few of the stars of the park, but stunning, nonetheless. Sporting bright ribbons of blue ice, the Aialik, Holgate, and Northwestern Glaciers flow directly to the sea. As we idled in the waters near the glaciers, you can hear them moving and crackling until large chucks break off and collapse into the water below. Witnessing this glacial movement is awe-inspiring and exciting to watch. But we were not alone. Harbor seals find solace in “chilling out” on chunks of ice floating around the bay. They were completely un-phased by our presence.
After our stop at the Tidewater Glaciers, we headed back to harbor. Our journey into the fjords of Kenai has come to an end. This was a fabulous beginning to our adventure into the interior of America’s “Final Frontier”, Alaska... and one that we won’t forget any time soon.
